The Scotland trip - Day 9 - Glasgow to Hove

8:12

I wake up, judging by the quality of the light, it must still be early. I check my mobile. Whoops! I had set the alarm on my mobile to 7:45 but nothing had happened. The mobile is all good. Then I realize that I had set the alarm for weekdays only and today is Saturday. A true “Duh!” moment, but no harm done. The train leaves at 11:40 and there is little I could have done in that time anyway. The plan is still to have a leisurely breakfast in The Willow Tearooms. Everything else would be too much hassle and as these are my last few hours in Scotland, there is no point in rushing things.

8:50

I have taken a nice long shower. There are two shower heads. A tropical one, the size of a dinner plate and a detachable one. It’s awesome. I really like the bathroom here. To be perfectly honest, I never really liked the fixed shower heads. I call them “puritan shower heads” because you cannot wash all body-parts effectively. These contraptions eliminate the possibility of doing naughty things with the shower head, hence I think they're "puritan". (At this point I should add that although showers do give me pleasure, these are far removed from being sexually gratifying in any way, shape or form.) 

The body towels are blissfully large and while I am drying myself, I am pondering which moron came up with the idea of having a separate loo. Of course, I understand that, if you travel as a couple, it makes things a lot easier. One can have a shower while the other can deliver a brown package without disturbing the showering party with sights, sounds and smells. Still, I cannot fathom who came up with the planning of the loo layout. The door cannot be opened fully, because it opens into the bog,  which is very small. So the door bumps right into the toilet paper holder. If you sit on the throne, you have to sit slightly to the right, because the open door occupies the rest of the space. Forget closing the door, unless you want to do some serious physical exercise.
A toilet which barely occupies 1 square metre, with a door opening into the "room". That is a feat only an English person would try to accomplish… and fail miserably because the laws of physics also apply in this country.

Dear planner, did you really think this through?

9:10

Ready to conquer breakfast. The tea rooms only opened 10 minutes ago and I am the only guest so far. Staff is still busy getting everything ready, but they ask me to sit down anyway. A rather cute guy takes my order. (Am I the only one reading this wrong deliberately?) Of course I could order yet another Scottish brekkie, but if I have to eat one more of those in the next month, I will throw up. So, I order something slightly healthier. Well, kind of... Scottish porridge with fresh fruit and a shot of Drambuie. A cappuccino. A hot croissant.

The cappuccino arrives promptly. The porridge shortly after. And the hot croissant, well, ok, I said that I wanted to have it after the porridge and not with it, but the cook seems to have some trouble with that part of the order.

When my croissant finally arrives it looks pitiful. I wonder if the Scottish might have a hate/hate relationship with croissants.

Porridge with fruit, and a shot of Drambuie

At the Willow Tearoom - Sauchiehall

9:30

I am fed and cappuchinoed. Very slowly, I head back to the hotel to pack up everything, brush my teeth and check-out. Three questions remain unanswered:

1) What is going on with croissants in Scotland: is it illegal to bake good ones here?

2) Who planned the loo layout at the Novotel Glasgow?

3) I should walk to the station or take the bus?

10:45

I have checked out and walk towards the station. One of the three questions answered. A hunch tells me that the first two questions will be swallowed by the fog of importance.
The hotel is supposedly 1.5 km from Central station. Since I am carrying a backpack, I figure it might be a good idea to start the hike, especially, since I have not walked there before. It looks pretty straightforward though.

11:10

At the station. That was easy and as I enter it, I marvel at it. It is dignified. All the shops have wood paneling and there are no bright trademark logos.

I still have half an hour to kill and rather than sitting around idly, I decide to head towards the town centre, just because I feel like it.

Glasgow Central

11:30

Back at the station. My train is there. Platform is announced. Excellent.

11:40

The train departs on time. I am in first class, quiet zone. Three out of the four people around me, whip out their laptops. I follow suit. None of us is a businesswoman or man though.

The only relaxed way to travel

Ready, but somewhat unwilling to head back south

12:50

Carlisle: first stop. More people. More laptops. Viva la technologica.

16:15

London Euston: I just scramled out of the train and walk down the endless platform towards the gates. Down the escalators. Off to Victoria.

17:20

On the train from Victoria to Hove. I am tired and yet elated. It's been a great trip, not cheap but absolutely worth it.

21:00

The first wash is already drying on the airer. I went grocery shopping and took a shower. While I am writing this, I am saving all the pictures on my external hard drive. Would I do it again? Yes, I would! Just give me a day to recover and to get my clothes dry.

The Scotland trip - Day 8 - Ardlui to Glasgow

6:57

Can't believe my luck. I am wide awake with a headache again. This is not fair, I did not even drink yesterday. I peek out of the window to check what the weather is like. Hooray! It is sunny. The view onto the lake is beautiful. I leave the curtains open and go back to bed.

7:30

With the feeling of dread, I enter the shower cabin. It does not really look like it is up to the job.

7:50

Pleasantly surprised by the water pressure. It was better than expected. So good that I only stopped because the water went cold after 15 minutes. The headache is a little kinder but is rears its ugly head as soon as I am out of the shower. I blame carrying the backpack and the weather change for the headache. Or maybe I am just hungry. 

The towels in the hotel are disappointingly small. I can’t wrap myself in one. Just as well, I got to get dressed.

8:30

Reorganised my bag once more. Got dressed. Time to go for breakfast!

9:02

Yet another Scottish breakfast polished off the plate. I feel like going back to sleep now. The headache is still there.

The trip is taking its toll. The waitress asked me for my room number. I say “One”. 

She stares at me, shakes her head and says “We don’t have a room one.” 

I take out my room key and realise that it was the room number of the last hotel. 

“Room 15 then, sorry. It’s been a few too many hotels in the last couple of days.”

I drink a cup of tea, a glass of orange juice and a glass of apple juice, thinking that of the headache might be down to dehydration. It has persisted any attempt to get rid of it. If this stupid headache is not gone by 10:30 I will have to go for more drastic measures. 

9:20

I still want to take two or three pictures before heading for the train station. Here are the results.

Still a few clouds in the sky

What a difference a day makes

Loch Lomond - Marina

Sun and clouds over Loch Lomond

9:30

Back at the train station. After yesterday’s disaster, I prefer to be at the station in good time. Just in case the train is too early for some silly reason. There is a train from Ardlui to Glasgow about three times a day. Missing one would be pretty bad.
Within a matter of one hour, I came across three German couples. Two at breakfast and one at the otherwise deserted train station. There is no ticket vending machine, no taxi stand.

Ardlui station - picturesque and deserted

9:57

Train is on time and pretty packed too. I buy a ticket off the conductor.

10:20

More seriously dramatic landscape with several Lochs along the way. One moment, one can only see bushes and rocks and then BOOM there is a gap which offers stunning views over a Loch. 

The headache continues to annoy me. I grab the Pepsi bottle and an Ibuprofen and down it. That’ll teach my naughty little head!

11:35

In Glasgow on time. Headache is still kind of there. Since I only have almost exactly 24 hours in Glasgow and it is still too early to check in, I do the only sensible thing. I head out of the station, straight to the Glasgow Hop on/Hop Off double-decker busses, get a ticket, hop on board and start to learn about the city.

13:00

Western loop of the Glasgow tour complete. I take my backpack and head towards the hotel. It should take me about 20 to 30 minutes to get there. Not sure what the check-in time was. I forgot. With a bit of luck, I can check-in right away, if not, I will put my backpack into storage.

13:32

Found the hotel without problems. The clouds in the sky have been eaten away why the sun. I ask if checking-in is possible already. The lovely receptionist checks if my room is available already. It is. I can unload my backpack and head back out after deciding what I want to see. 

The Kelvingrove Museum and the Botanic Gardens looked cool! I check where the next subway station is and how to get to Kelvingrove. Looks easy. Time to get going.

13:37

I can't believe it. The Ibuprofen simply did not work. An espresso will either cure it or make it worse. It’s a gamble but I feel like playing. Single espresso to go.

14:05

Kelvingrove – the museum is beautiful. There is a bit of everything, not very homogenous, but the setting is truly lovely. Both thumbs up. I feel weird! The single espresso helped - the headache is gone.

The Kelvingrove museum from the outside

Kelvingrove - inside

Kelvingrove - inside

14:45

I am at the Botanic gardens. Awe inspiring. Although, I am clad in black, the sun is shining and it is 24 degrees. Inside the glasshouses it’s even hotter. I am melting away, but the sights are worth it.

Glasgow Botanic Gardens

Glasgow Botanic Gardens

15:15

Outside the Botanic gardens, I wait for the next tourist bus to take me back to the centre so I can complete the eastern loop of the tour.

17:05

Tour now complete. All the museums are now closed. I would have liked to see more, but I would not mind coming back here. Now it’s time to hunt for something to eat. I had seen something Chinese which looked alright. After all these hearty English/Scottish breakfasts, I need something slightly more oriental.

18:15

I have been very naughty indeed. Chinese all you can eat. Two trips to the buffet for the main meal and another two trips to the desert section… two slices of cake, a large dollop of ice cream and a mini doughnut.

祝您好胃口

18:30

It’s a sunny Friday evening, but I just want to lie on the bed, rub my belly and have the TV running in the background.

18:45

On the bed. TV running in the background. Not rubbing my belly though. Moving pictures from the camera onto the harddrive and typing up today’s events. I do not want to pay almost £14 for the breakfast here at the hotel. Seriously, 14 pounds is just cheeky, it’s the Novotel and not some 5 star hotel. I have heard that The Willow Tearooms are special and I checked their menu. They open at 9. Looks like I have found a place to eat tomorrow morning.

The Scotland trip - Day 7 - The Jacobite steam train journey and Ardlui

6:43

My body once again works like a clock. I am awake, but I refuse to get up already.

7:40

Ok, that shower was not exactly what I would call a power shower, but I got there in the end.

8:00

I am heading downstairs for breakfast. It is a good thing that I am a girl. The door key has an pendant so large that, if I were a guy, people might be tempted to ask me whether that is a key in my pocket or...  

Anyway, speaking of tight trousers, they pinch quite nastily around the bellybutton lately. These Scottish breakfasts are a tourist's occupational waistline hazard. Then again, looking around the UK, it is probably safe to say that the traditional breakfast here is an occupational hazard to anyone who enjoys them more than they should.

The (old) couple next to my table discuss climbing the Ben Nevis today. The guy is reading from the guide book in proper old-fashioned RP. Is it just me or should elocution lessons become compulsory again? 

8:30

I am chilling some more before the taxi turns up in good time for the steam train. This will be a long day and I am in not too much of a hurry to get out there.

9:05

I have checked out and left the hotel to wait for the taxi outside. I am a little scared to miss it. There is a slight annoying drizzle. Ben Nevis is tightly wrapped in a shroud of fog. Not exactly nice, but maybe the weather will do an Inverness for me again today.

9:16

The taxi arrives. The driver is a nice chap who chats away about his greyhound dogs. He tells me where to get a good coffee at the station in Fort William.

9:30

I clamber out of the taxi and hurry into the station. The train is already on the platform – as are crowds of spectators. There seem to be quite a few trainspotters armed with video cameras and digital SLRs. The tourists who will be on the train are sporting the same gear. My main concern is the first class carriage. Yes!!!! It is the proper first class. 

10:00

I have spent the last 30 minutes taking pictures, short videos, going to the loo. Another 20 minutes to go. I climb onto the train and start taking pictures there.

The tickets go fast

Jacobite steam train locomotive

Jacobite steam train - 2nd class Hogwards compartments 

Jacobite steam train - 1st class

Jacobite steam train - 1st class

10:20

I was ready 20 minutes ago, but now everyone else is as well. Even the rather annoying German couple across the aisle. The guy has asked me to take a picture of him and his girlfriend. Yes, I could have replied in German, but that might trigger a proper small talk. And I do not really feel like talking to them. So, I answer in the poshest English I got that I can take a picture, no problem. It seems to have worked. They go back to their riveting conversation. I stare out of the window into the opposite direction, so they can't see me roll my eyes whenever they are being particularly moronic. 


11:00
Since I already checked the route yesterday, I know when to look where. As we drive through tunnels, the windows turn white and it is impossible to see anything for a few seconds. And it smells. The wonders of steam. The drizzle is gone but the sky is still overcast.

12:10

The second arrival in Mallaig. The weather is staunchly refusing to get better.
What little there is to be discovered, I already ticked off the list yesterday. I have 90 minutes to find something more or less useful to do. While everyone queues at the station to go to the loo, I quickly walk over to the ferry terminal to have a wee there. The ferry terminal has two cubicles at least one of which is always vacant. And they look cleaner than the one at the station too.

13:30

I walked around the harbour where I saw a seal looking at the tourists. It seemed to smile.
Had an ice cream. Decided to buy myself a cheap and small souvenir: socks. And then I give up trying to kill time and go back to the train.

The steam train in Mallaig

Having an ice cream in Mallaig

Ship spotting in Mallaig

14:10

The train is back on its way to Fort William. It’s amazing to see how many people are waiting for the train along the way. Some wave, others take pictures, they cheer. 

16:00

I have arrived back in Fort William safe and sound. It was a great journey and part of me wants to have this type of first class restored. You have to admit that sitting in an comfy armchair while you travel is really classy! 
Despite travelling very comfortably, I am very tired. Like I walked all the way to Mallaig and back. And I have 90 minutes to fill before the train to Ardlui is due. 
First of all, I need to buy a ticket for it.
Then my bladder is asking me for a trip to the loo. After that I venture into the Fort William town centre. As small towns go, it seems alright, but don't expect wild and exciting things. It's probably pathetic, but I end up eating at Morrisons which is right next to the station. Pathetic seems to be a trend though, because I am not the only one having a late lunch / early dinner there.

16:45

With the sausage roll killed and an apple juice polished away, I am busying myself by engaging in an activity called "locals spotting". It's pretty easy. One has to sit there and observe people. The results may vary greatly. Some people are as bland as beans on toast. Others are more like a freaky blue tinged salsa. The latter are not to be found at Morrisons in Fort William. After so much excitement, I slouch back to the station. My backpack is getting annoyingly heavy. 

17:37

The train sets off towards Glasgow. I am tired and very much looking forward to my bed in Ardlui. We are travelling through one of the bleakest places I have seen in my life. Mile after mile of nothing but landscape. No house. No road. Just rocks, bushes, hunched vegetation. And the odd train station where people get on and off. I can't help but wonder where they live. And why they live there.

Nothingness

19:41

One more stop and I will be able to undress and snooze off. At least that is what I think. The train engine is turned off. We’re told it might take a while until we move again. One stop. Just one frekkin’ stop. I have a splitting headache and really just want to stretch somewhere comfortable - like a bed.

20:41

We’re moving again now. 1 hour has passed without proper announcement. I am incredibly pissed off. At some point, I overhear the conductor say something along the lines of "We’re waiting for the train from the opposite direction. They know where they go from here southward. We know where we go from here northward. We can’t take the train further because we don’t know what’s around the corner."

So this is why most of the people on this train will miss their connection.
Brilliant!
And I thought that one of the advantages of a train is that the driver does not really have to know where to go, because the train is kind of limited by where the tracks lead it. Of course, that is just the layman’s view of things.

21:03

Wow! Ardlui is huge! A train station. A phone box. A hotel. That's it.
The hotel seems fairly busy. I am glad they did not give away my room, since I told them I would arrive around 8 and I did not have their phone number (or signal) to call them.

21:15

I have checked out the room. It is nice. The bathroom is a tad bit out of date though. I quickly down a hot chocolate. Despite everything, I pop outside to take some pictures of Loch Lomond.

Clouds over Loch Lomond

Ardlui - Loch Lomond

21:32

I am typing up today's events and move pics from my camera onto my hard-drive. This really is the middle of nowhere. No WiFi connection detected. Will have to post this slightly later then. 

The Scotland trip - Day 6 - Inverness to Banavie

6:51

As usual, I am awake already. Went to bed early and need to get going early, so it's alright this time. First things first - shower.

7:50

Time for breakfast. Like yesterday morning, the sky is overcast. Not really nice, but I will be mostly on trains today and will also cover quite a distance.

8:30

Reorganised my backpack. It's time to leaving the B&B, which is a pity. I really enjoyed my stay here. Inverness itself could be a bit bigger though.

8:45

I walked briskly thanks to the two course breakfast. I am now at Inverness station. The train to Kyle is already there. I am boarding it unsure where to sit. It is not very full. I am looking forward to this train journey as it is supposed to be very scenic.

10:17

The weather is changing for the better. It is sunny and crisp. I am sitting on the wrong side - should have picked a seat on the right hand side of the train, but this is really amazing anyway.

Inverness to Kyle - taken on the moving train

Approaching Kyle of Lochalsh

Inverness to Kyle - taken on the moving train

11:38

I am in Kyle now. The weather is spectacular. As I step out of the train, I marvel at the scenery. This is absolutely amazing.

Kyle of Lochalsh - view onto bridge to Skye and Skye

I have about 30 minutes to kill until the bus to Eilean Donan Castle is due. Under normal circumstances, I would go and explore the village. Instead of doing that, I just sit there and stare in wonder and awe. The air is salty. The sun is bright and warm. Wind is blowing through my hair... and I kind of curse myself for not having added Skye as a proper destination.

12:14

The bus is there. 4 minutes late. Not a reason for concern under normal circumstances, but buses here are far and few. The landscape is breathtakingly beautiful. Harsh and lush, ragged and soft all at once. I just can't seem to get enough of it.

12:35

I have arrived at the Eilean Donan Castle. It looks pretty amazing and the ticket only costs £6.

12:55

The Eilean Donan Castle website advised to plan at least 1 hour for the visit. I am done with the four rooms on show, hustling and jostling through a group of German bus tourists. Minimum age 72. I feel young despite my greying hair. My backpack serves as a bumper... I bump into pretty much everything and everyone. Since there is nowhere else but my back to put it, there is nothing I can do. 

13:15

I had lunch with view onto the castle. The desert - a whiskey fruit cake - was interesting. It was a fruit cake for sure, but the whiskey must have decided it had better things to do than stick around. I have also taken photos of course but there is still some time until the taxi arrives. On the parking lot, I can see about 5 or 6 coaches, probably jam-packed with tourists. Urgh!

14:00

I am sitting in the sun, taking in the landscape and the smell of the sea among the lessening crowd of tourists. There is a pleasant steady breeze. A band is playing Scottish traditionals.

I am inclined to think that the Great British Summer is nothing compared to the Glorious Scottish Summer. (Sorry! I have pictures to prove it.)

View onto Loch from Eilean Donan

From Eilean Donan castle towards Skye

Lush green and deep blue

View towards Skye

Enjoying the sun

14:35

It is time to head towards the village of Dornie where I ordered the taxi to pick me up.

14:40

I am in Dornie already. That was a lot quicker than expected. Sometimes relying on Googlemaps is not a good idea. Who cares. I simply sit in the sun some more.

14:55

The taxi is there. It is 5 minutes early and I breathe a sigh of relief. So far my planning is working out like clockwork.

15:30

The taxi driver is a lovely chap. He makes conversation so easy and tells me a lot about the area. When I mention the amazing weather, he chuckles and says that it is Scotland's best guarded secret. I can't contest that. So far, the weather has been treating me kindly. I sincerely hope that I have not jinxed it now.

We cross Skye and the landscape is totally surreal. I really need to come back here. 

15:41

We are in Armadale - just in time for the earlier ferry, which is due to depart in 9 minutes. I hurry to get a footpassenger ticket. I had originally planned to take the next one at 17:15, but since I can get this one, I will play it safe. Even if it means being stuck in Mallaig until the next train is due in a couple of hours.

16:20

I have arrived in Mallaig. The ferry ride went smoothly, gave me some more amazing views. But now I need the loo.

From Armadale to Mallaig by ferry

From Armadale to Mallaig by ferry

From Armadale to Mallaig by ferry

16:30

I have found the train station in Mallaig. Ok, it's not like I had to search it - it is unmissable. Mallaig seems to consist of the ferry port, the train station and a few houses and restaurants. That is pretty much it. And it is remote. I mean, ... the train station does not even have a ticket vending machine. It has a counter manned by a real person who sells tickets. That kind of unsettles me. 

I do not have a ticket from Mallaig to Banavie yet, since booking it in advance would not have made it cheaper. So I tell the lady that I need a ticket to Banavie. She smiles as though she is feeling sorry for me. “Banavie?” she asks in an Are you sure? kind of way. I confirm. I do not think that she has any reason to be smug about my choice of destination... throwing stones in glass houses and all that. Then again, maybe she knows Banavie. Oh dear! What have I gotten myself into? Ah well, it's only for one night. I will be fine.

Once I am holding my the ticket, the rucksack is getting somewhat heavy. 

I now realise that Mallaig is also brimming with seagulls and B&Bs with vacancies. Despite having had lunch at the castle, I feel peckish again from all the watching and wonder I have done. (If only "watching and wondering" were to burn as many calories as jogging.)

The Tea gardens look like the perfect place to have an afternoon tea.

17:30

There is still another 45 minutes to go until the train to Banavie departs. 

I pass the train station and see a red train, steam, loads of people - clearly tourists. I go and have a look at what is going on.

It’s the additional Jacobite steam train for the summer season. I check it out and I am almost immediately disappointed. The first class carriage I am seeing is not really what I had seen, booked or had in mind. It looks kind of cheap. Oh dear! I really hope that tomorrow's first class will be different. If it is not, I am seriously considering cancelling the trip. 

18:19

At long last the train to Banavie departs. There is truly not much to do in Mallaig. The sun is hiding behind clouds now. We climb up and down, pass Lochs, cross the viaduct. It is all pretty cool, but I found the trip from Inverness to Kyle to be more scenic. Maybe it was down to the better weather. 

19:38

We're getting closer to Banavie. The weather has improved in the last 15 minutes. Ben Nevis is moving into view, standing proud in the evening summer sun, wearing a cloud for a hat. That looks pretty cool!

Ben Nevis in the evening sun

19:45

I have found the hotel pretty quickly. Again, googlemaps made it look more complicated than it was. The hotel has a conservative mid to late '80ish feeling about it. Not sure what grants the prize, yet is is certainly better than sleeping rough - or in a single bed. For some reason I am hungry again. But that will have to wait. I want to have a look at Neptune's staircase, right next to the hotel.

20:00

I took some pictures of Ben Nevis and Neptune's staircase. My blackberry chimes. The taxi booking from Banavie to Fort William for tomorrow has just been confirmed.

20:45

It was time to attend to the hole in my stomach. It has been filled with a pleasant veggie curry. Now by body tells me that it needs a bed. It's been quite a day and despite all the concerns, everything went amazingly smooth.

21:52

My body is tired but my mind was not just yet. I have once again reorganised my backpack. (Dirty stuff to the bottom, clothes I will wear tomorrow out on the chair.) All electrical gadgets are hooked to the mains. I have finished typing up today's report, with Sherlock running on TV in the background, although I am doing the show an injustice. It should never be downgraded to background noise. 

One last thing is nagging me. I surf to YouTube to see what first class looks like on the Jacobite. It is very different from the one I saw today. Proper first class.
I hope that I will be on that one – if there really are two different trains.