The Scotland trip - Day 7 - The Jacobite steam train journey and Ardlui

6:43

My body once again works like a clock. I am awake, but I refuse to get up already.

7:40

Ok, that shower was not exactly what I would call a power shower, but I got there in the end.

8:00

I am heading downstairs for breakfast. It is a good thing that I am a girl. The door key has an pendant so large that, if I were a guy, people might be tempted to ask me whether that is a key in my pocket or...  

Anyway, speaking of tight trousers, they pinch quite nastily around the bellybutton lately. These Scottish breakfasts are a tourist's occupational waistline hazard. Then again, looking around the UK, it is probably safe to say that the traditional breakfast here is an occupational hazard to anyone who enjoys them more than they should.

The (old) couple next to my table discuss climbing the Ben Nevis today. The guy is reading from the guide book in proper old-fashioned RP. Is it just me or should elocution lessons become compulsory again? 

8:30

I am chilling some more before the taxi turns up in good time for the steam train. This will be a long day and I am in not too much of a hurry to get out there.

9:05

I have checked out and left the hotel to wait for the taxi outside. I am a little scared to miss it. There is a slight annoying drizzle. Ben Nevis is tightly wrapped in a shroud of fog. Not exactly nice, but maybe the weather will do an Inverness for me again today.

9:16

The taxi arrives. The driver is a nice chap who chats away about his greyhound dogs. He tells me where to get a good coffee at the station in Fort William.

9:30

I clamber out of the taxi and hurry into the station. The train is already on the platform – as are crowds of spectators. There seem to be quite a few trainspotters armed with video cameras and digital SLRs. The tourists who will be on the train are sporting the same gear. My main concern is the first class carriage. Yes!!!! It is the proper first class. 

10:00

I have spent the last 30 minutes taking pictures, short videos, going to the loo. Another 20 minutes to go. I climb onto the train and start taking pictures there.

The tickets go fast

Jacobite steam train locomotive

Jacobite steam train - 2nd class Hogwards compartments 

Jacobite steam train - 1st class

Jacobite steam train - 1st class

10:20

I was ready 20 minutes ago, but now everyone else is as well. Even the rather annoying German couple across the aisle. The guy has asked me to take a picture of him and his girlfriend. Yes, I could have replied in German, but that might trigger a proper small talk. And I do not really feel like talking to them. So, I answer in the poshest English I got that I can take a picture, no problem. It seems to have worked. They go back to their riveting conversation. I stare out of the window into the opposite direction, so they can't see me roll my eyes whenever they are being particularly moronic. 


11:00
Since I already checked the route yesterday, I know when to look where. As we drive through tunnels, the windows turn white and it is impossible to see anything for a few seconds. And it smells. The wonders of steam. The drizzle is gone but the sky is still overcast.

12:10

The second arrival in Mallaig. The weather is staunchly refusing to get better.
What little there is to be discovered, I already ticked off the list yesterday. I have 90 minutes to find something more or less useful to do. While everyone queues at the station to go to the loo, I quickly walk over to the ferry terminal to have a wee there. The ferry terminal has two cubicles at least one of which is always vacant. And they look cleaner than the one at the station too.

13:30

I walked around the harbour where I saw a seal looking at the tourists. It seemed to smile.
Had an ice cream. Decided to buy myself a cheap and small souvenir: socks. And then I give up trying to kill time and go back to the train.

The steam train in Mallaig

Having an ice cream in Mallaig

Ship spotting in Mallaig

14:10

The train is back on its way to Fort William. It’s amazing to see how many people are waiting for the train along the way. Some wave, others take pictures, they cheer. 

16:00

I have arrived back in Fort William safe and sound. It was a great journey and part of me wants to have this type of first class restored. You have to admit that sitting in an comfy armchair while you travel is really classy! 
Despite travelling very comfortably, I am very tired. Like I walked all the way to Mallaig and back. And I have 90 minutes to fill before the train to Ardlui is due. 
First of all, I need to buy a ticket for it.
Then my bladder is asking me for a trip to the loo. After that I venture into the Fort William town centre. As small towns go, it seems alright, but don't expect wild and exciting things. It's probably pathetic, but I end up eating at Morrisons which is right next to the station. Pathetic seems to be a trend though, because I am not the only one having a late lunch / early dinner there.

16:45

With the sausage roll killed and an apple juice polished away, I am busying myself by engaging in an activity called "locals spotting". It's pretty easy. One has to sit there and observe people. The results may vary greatly. Some people are as bland as beans on toast. Others are more like a freaky blue tinged salsa. The latter are not to be found at Morrisons in Fort William. After so much excitement, I slouch back to the station. My backpack is getting annoyingly heavy. 

17:37

The train sets off towards Glasgow. I am tired and very much looking forward to my bed in Ardlui. We are travelling through one of the bleakest places I have seen in my life. Mile after mile of nothing but landscape. No house. No road. Just rocks, bushes, hunched vegetation. And the odd train station where people get on and off. I can't help but wonder where they live. And why they live there.

Nothingness

19:41

One more stop and I will be able to undress and snooze off. At least that is what I think. The train engine is turned off. We’re told it might take a while until we move again. One stop. Just one frekkin’ stop. I have a splitting headache and really just want to stretch somewhere comfortable - like a bed.

20:41

We’re moving again now. 1 hour has passed without proper announcement. I am incredibly pissed off. At some point, I overhear the conductor say something along the lines of "We’re waiting for the train from the opposite direction. They know where they go from here southward. We know where we go from here northward. We can’t take the train further because we don’t know what’s around the corner."

So this is why most of the people on this train will miss their connection.
Brilliant!
And I thought that one of the advantages of a train is that the driver does not really have to know where to go, because the train is kind of limited by where the tracks lead it. Of course, that is just the layman’s view of things.

21:03

Wow! Ardlui is huge! A train station. A phone box. A hotel. That's it.
The hotel seems fairly busy. I am glad they did not give away my room, since I told them I would arrive around 8 and I did not have their phone number (or signal) to call them.

21:15

I have checked out the room. It is nice. The bathroom is a tad bit out of date though. I quickly down a hot chocolate. Despite everything, I pop outside to take some pictures of Loch Lomond.

Clouds over Loch Lomond

Ardlui - Loch Lomond

21:32

I am typing up today's events and move pics from my camera onto my hard-drive. This really is the middle of nowhere. No WiFi connection detected. Will have to post this slightly later then.